Sunday, June 12, 2016

Barrie Boy Cut Briefs: PASS



If well-fitting jeans are the holy grail of home sewing, a good pair of undies is Excalibur. I've tried and failed to make underwear over the years. Nothing worked until I pulled out the Kitschy Coo Barrie Boy Cut Briefs pattern.

The brilliance of these briefs is that they use knit fabric bands (think yoga pants) instead of elastic for the waistband and leg openings. This provides a comfortable fit and undies that stay in place without binding. Amanda tells you exactly how much stretch you'll need and how to measure the stretch of your fabric. Her advice saved me from sewing another pair of too-small underwear that go straight from sewing machine to recycle bin.

I used scrap fabric for these first three pairs, all the low cut version of the pattern. Though all three fit well, they fit a bit differently from one another because of fabric choices.

Pair 1: body and bands in a knit with minimum required stretch. They sit lower than I'm used to in the back and feel snug without being too tight.


Pair 2: body in knit with lots of stretch, bands from knit with minimum stretch. Because the body fabric has vertical stretch, they sit higher than the first pair. The bands didn't stretch quite enough to achieve a smooth application but feel okay when worn.


Pair 3: body and bands in knits with lots of stretch. They provide more coverage in back, like the second pair. The bands stretch a lot without sagging (on the body, if not the laundry line).


I might try the high rise version in less stretchy knits and continue on with the low rise version in super stretchy fabric. We'll see how far I can get using scraps before purchasing undies-specific yardage. Feels good not to be shopping for underwear anymore!


Sunday, May 15, 2016

Maxi Skirt & Dress: PASS



Are you participating in Me-Made-May this year? I've been wearing my own stuff, but have only snapped a few daily outfit pics and have completely forgotten to check in on the fabulous giveaways. I know, right? Where are my priorities?

I have managed to make good on my pledge to rework items in my closet that aren't up to snuff. Case in point is this multi-colored knit maxi skirt in a feather print. I whipped this up on Easter in about 30 minutes using the Do it Yourself Divas tutorial.


I loved the results so much that I sewed up this striped version the next evening.


The skirts started off almost identical, but in the last month or so the feather print skirt has grown by an inch! Rather than hem it again (shudder), I pulled it up to see if it would look okay as a dress.

You know, I think it looks even better. I grabbed some bias tape and sewed some quick little straps. (Too boring to take pictures of, and I might replace them with something less stretchy, anyway.) And with that small change, it's out of the wardrobe dead zone.

Have you ever gone back to tweak something to make it more wearable? How about a major overhaul? I'm thinking of separating this party dress into a skirt and top. I think I'd wear the skirt all the time, if I could get up the gumption to take on picking out all those seams.

Sunday, May 1, 2016

Announcements: Me Made May 2016!

me-made-may'16

Hooray! It's Me Made May time again. Have you signed up? All it takes is setting a personal goal. Here's mine:
I, Vanessa, of passfailsewing.blogspot.com (@passfailsewing on instagram)  sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '16. I endeavor to wear an article of me-made clothing each day for the duration of May 2016 and to repair, rework, or recycle an article of clothing each week that is currently languishing in my closet.
It's so much more fun to make something new than to fix a piece I've already sewn. But with just a little time, I think I could turn some nearly good pieces into things I love to wear. Nothing like a public declaration to get you moving. :)

If you haven't signed up, go ahead and take care of that business. There's a giveaway on right now that sounds freaking amazing.

Thursday, April 28, 2016

Baby Shower Bundle: PASS


Remember the wedding gift coasters? The happy couple is expecting a baby any minute next month! For their baby shower, I bundled up basic baby pants with some of my favorite books, toys, and baby items from when our emerging tween was just a little guy.

The pants, a free pattern from Made by Rae, are simple to sew and get lots of "oohs" and "ahs." The adorable prints are de-stash fabric from my friend and my mom. Both are lightweight quilting cottons that are soft to the touch. I used French seams to avoid scratchy seam allowances on the inside.


The drawstring bag idea came from the Village Haberdashery's Genuinely useful new baby makes with Zoe series of posts. I took Zoe's advice to heart, right down to applying a line of trimming. (Thanks, Zoe. Your design sense is brilliant!)

Now, I could have figured out the construction just from Zoe's photos. (Smart idea, cutting out one big rectangle and folding it over so you don't have to match up the trim on two pieces. Wish I had done that.) But instead, I sought out a tutorial and was pleased to find this one from Carpe Creativity. The directions are easy to follow and the steps are well illustrated.


The exterior bag fabric is from my friend (the same de-stash that yielded the baby pants and these shorts), trimmed with thrift store rick rack. The lining is a repurposed crib sheet. (Yes, I've been hanging on to that sheet for nearly 10 years. Don't judge. That interplay of the exterior and lining prints was amazingness waiting to happen.)

Will these baby makes be genuinely useful? Still to be seen. Mom-to-be was happy with her gifts, though, which makes this bundle a PASS.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Birthday Lady Skater Dress: PASS


Birthdays are a day to act like royalty at our house. The person of honor is exempt from all responsibility and can do whatever they want. And I wanted a lot: a cycling class, lunch with my sweetie, dinner with friends, roller skating, birthday cake, and hours and hours in the studio for sewing!

When my guys gifted me the Lady Skater pattern from Kitschy Coo, I knew how I'd spend that studio time. I set out to make a Lady Skater for my evening at the roller rink. My measurements are between size 3 and 4 in this pattern, so I traced between the cutting lines to create a size 3.5. I also cut the sleeves to elbow length and made a square shoulder adjustment (a life-changing suggestion from M.T. in my Lane Raglan post).



Kitschy Coo Amanda offers sound advice in her pattern instructions to make a bodice muslin before cutting your good fabric. I'm so glad I listened to her. The muslin showed I needed further tweaks. A cheater FBA and a sway back adjustment improved the fit immensely. I referenced the Lady Skater fitting and adjustments post for guidance.

The Lady Skater is a close fit on top, which can be disconcerting if you are making the dress in a thin fabric. My muslin showed off some less-than-lovely lumps on my back. I had already decided to underline the bodice of my final dress with swimsuit lining because the fashion fabric was too sheer to wear alone. Adding a second layer also created a smoother look on my back. (At least the upper back. This picture shows there's still some work to be done.)


I also needed a second layer in the skirt to stay decent. I've tried underlining swishy skirts before and been unhappy with the results. A lining that hangs freely gives the skirt more movement. In this pattern, the assembly instructions are to sew the side seams of the bodice, skirt, and sleeves in one go. This is super quick.  Unless, of course, you realize AFTER you start assembling that this method doesn't work if you plan to line your skirt. Then you spend a lot of time with the seam ripper.



So, did I finish in time to wear the dress roller skating? I did not. But I had a wonderful time giving it a try.

The dress was ready by the next evening and I wore it to work the following day and to a fashion show on campus that weekend. (These photos are from a nearby computer lab, where my friend and I warmed up after spending three hours watching models in a TENT while it snowed.) This dress feels great to wear and I'm sure it will be in heavy rotation through spring!

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Dress to Nightgown: PASS


Remember that dress that I didn't like wearing, even though the green gumdrop print fabric felt so lovely? Well, now it's a nightgown.

I hacked off the bodice, which was beyond saving, and held the skirt at various heights to decide whether to make a long skirt, mini skirt, or dress.



I kept the side seams and ruffled hem as they were and used lingerie elastic from my stash to gather the top and make simple straps. It would have been more flattering to make an actual bodice instead of just an elasticized tube. But when compared to my usual sleep attire -- one of my husband's giant t-shirts from the 90s -- any nightgown looks fantastic.

I've worn this more in two months than I wore the dress in eight years. Which makes this former FAIL a new PASS. (Woot!)


Sunday, March 6, 2016

XYT Workout Top: FAIL


I've been wearing the same tank top to the gym for 10 years. It's gone from looking broken in to downright shabby. Part of why I keep this shirt in rotation is that it's modest cut covers my incredibly supportive sports bra, which looks more like a spandex vest. When Fehr Trade's XYT Workout Top came out, with its cute back options and built-in bra, I thought I'd hit the gym shirt jackpot.

I sewed up the XYT as a bikini top this summer. The built-in bra, fine for the beach, won't cut for me in the gym. This time I took Melissa's advice for busty gals and made a version to wear over a sports bra. (I tried a new bra, too. It's pretty and works for low-impact exercise, but I'll stick with my super vest for running and jumping.)

The XYT comes together quickly, especially when you omit the bra. I went from tracing the pattern to trying on my new shirt in just an afternoon. Too bad I'll never wear it out of the house. Let's break it down.


5 Reasons this XYT is a FAIL

5. Poor fabric choice, a desperation buy when I was scouring downtown Vancouver for wicking spandex in the last hour of our visit (dumb). The pink is too much and the fabric sticks to itself. 

4. Fit is too tight and short for my taste. Which I could have changed, had I been paying attention when I traced the pattern. 

3. Puckers around the neckband and arm holes from uneven tension when sewing in the elastic.

2. Obvious need for a sway back adjustment.

And the number one reason this shirt fails is....

1. THAT HEM!  




What is up with that stiff hem that sits away from my body? It's like Jane Jetson decided to make workout gear.


I think the culprit is weird fabric + band application. It was my second attempt at a hem that lies flat. Here's what I got when I simply folded up the bottom and sewed:


So my ratty tank top is still in play while I make pattern adjustments and figure out whether to go all matchy-matchy with my leggings fabric or suck it up and order a coordinating solid online. Hopefully I've got a few more weeks before it falls apart completely.