Sunday, July 17, 2016

Duathlon Bike Shorts: FAIL


Though I've commuted by bike for years, I'd never taken a trip longer than 9 miles in each direction until this weekend. That's when I finally acted on a bicycle touring daydream and joined a weekend ride that traveled 30+ miles each day through beautiful countryside with stops at Lake Michigan.


Alas, these are not the shorts I wore during the trip. As you can see, the fit is pretty terrible. They are too short in the back, pulling up at the crotch, and loose around the legs and bum. Tweaking the fit would help. But I think fabric choice is the main culprit. I used Spoonflower's Performance Piqué in a print specifically for the Duathlon Shorts. It wicks away moisture, sure, but the stretch recovery isn't close to enough for shorts. (It's perfect for the XYT Workout top, however.)


What to do? I'm not getting much use out of these now. I'm eschewing them for my indoor cycling class. They're just too baggy and uncomfortable. And I only throw them on for a commute as a last resort. I guess I need to tear them apart and reuse the chamois and silicone elastic in another pair. (Groan.) Given how long it took me to sign up for this bike tour, I've got at least another year to get it done.

Sunday, June 12, 2016

Barrie Boy Cut Briefs: PASS



If well-fitting jeans are the holy grail of home sewing, a good pair of undies is Excalibur. I've tried and failed to make underwear over the years. Nothing worked until I pulled out the Kitschy Coo Barrie Boy Cut Briefs pattern.

The brilliance of these briefs is that they use knit fabric bands (think yoga pants) instead of elastic for the waistband and leg openings. This provides a comfortable fit and undies that stay in place without binding. Amanda tells you exactly how much stretch you'll need and how to measure the stretch of your fabric. Her advice saved me from sewing another pair of too-small underwear that go straight from sewing machine to recycle bin.

I used scrap fabric for these first three pairs, all the low cut version of the pattern. Though all three fit well, they fit a bit differently from one another because of fabric choices.

Pair 1: body and bands in a knit with minimum required stretch. They sit lower than I'm used to in the back and feel snug without being too tight.


Pair 2: body in knit with lots of stretch, bands from knit with minimum stretch. Because the body fabric has vertical stretch, they sit higher than the first pair. The bands didn't stretch quite enough to achieve a smooth application but feel okay when worn.


Pair 3: body and bands in knits with lots of stretch. They provide more coverage in back, like the second pair. The bands stretch a lot without sagging (on the body, if not the laundry line).


I might try the high rise version in less stretchy knits and continue on with the low rise version in super stretchy fabric. We'll see how far I can get using scraps before purchasing undies-specific yardage. Feels good not to be shopping for underwear anymore!


Sunday, May 15, 2016

Maxi Skirt & Dress: PASS



Are you participating in Me-Made-May this year? I've been wearing my own stuff, but have only snapped a few daily outfit pics and have completely forgotten to check in on the fabulous giveaways. I know, right? Where are my priorities?

I have managed to make good on my pledge to rework items in my closet that aren't up to snuff. Case in point is this multi-colored knit maxi skirt in a feather print. I whipped this up on Easter in about 30 minutes using the Do it Yourself Divas tutorial.


I loved the results so much that I sewed up this striped version the next evening.


The skirts started off almost identical, but in the last month or so the feather print skirt has grown by an inch! Rather than hem it again (shudder), I pulled it up to see if it would look okay as a dress.

You know, I think it looks even better. I grabbed some bias tape and sewed some quick little straps. (Too boring to take pictures of, and I might replace them with something less stretchy, anyway.) And with that small change, it's out of the wardrobe dead zone.

Have you ever gone back to tweak something to make it more wearable? How about a major overhaul? I'm thinking of separating this party dress into a skirt and top. I think I'd wear the skirt all the time, if I could get up the gumption to take on picking out all those seams.

Sunday, May 1, 2016

Announcements: Me Made May 2016!

me-made-may'16

Hooray! It's Me Made May time again. Have you signed up? All it takes is setting a personal goal. Here's mine:
I, Vanessa, of passfailsewing.blogspot.com (@passfailsewing on instagram)  sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '16. I endeavor to wear an article of me-made clothing each day for the duration of May 2016 and to repair, rework, or recycle an article of clothing each week that is currently languishing in my closet.
It's so much more fun to make something new than to fix a piece I've already sewn. But with just a little time, I think I could turn some nearly good pieces into things I love to wear. Nothing like a public declaration to get you moving. :)

If you haven't signed up, go ahead and take care of that business. There's a giveaway on right now that sounds freaking amazing.

Thursday, April 28, 2016

Baby Shower Bundle: PASS


Remember the wedding gift coasters? The happy couple is expecting a baby any minute next month! For their baby shower, I bundled up basic baby pants with some of my favorite books, toys, and baby items from when our emerging tween was just a little guy.

The pants, a free pattern from Made by Rae, are simple to sew and get lots of "oohs" and "ahs." The adorable prints are de-stash fabric from my friend and my mom. Both are lightweight quilting cottons that are soft to the touch. I used French seams to avoid scratchy seam allowances on the inside.


The drawstring bag idea came from the Village Haberdashery's Genuinely useful new baby makes with Zoe series of posts. I took Zoe's advice to heart, right down to applying a line of trimming. (Thanks, Zoe. Your design sense is brilliant!)

Now, I could have figured out the construction just from Zoe's photos. (Smart idea, cutting out one big rectangle and folding it over so you don't have to match up the trim on two pieces. Wish I had done that.) But instead, I sought out a tutorial and was pleased to find this one from Carpe Creativity. The directions are easy to follow and the steps are well illustrated.


The exterior bag fabric is from my friend (the same de-stash that yielded the baby pants and these shorts), trimmed with thrift store rick rack. The lining is a repurposed crib sheet. (Yes, I've been hanging on to that sheet for nearly 10 years. Don't judge. That interplay of the exterior and lining prints was amazingness waiting to happen.)

Will these baby makes be genuinely useful? Still to be seen. Mom-to-be was happy with her gifts, though, which makes this bundle a PASS.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Birthday Lady Skater Dress: PASS


Birthdays are a day to act like royalty at our house. The person of honor is exempt from all responsibility and can do whatever they want. And I wanted a lot: a cycling class, lunch with my sweetie, dinner with friends, roller skating, birthday cake, and hours and hours in the studio for sewing!

When my guys gifted me the Lady Skater pattern from Kitschy Coo, I knew how I'd spend that studio time. I set out to make a Lady Skater for my evening at the roller rink. My measurements are between size 3 and 4 in this pattern, so I traced between the cutting lines to create a size 3.5. I also cut the sleeves to elbow length and made a square shoulder adjustment (a life-changing suggestion from M.T. in my Lane Raglan post).



Kitschy Coo Amanda offers sound advice in her pattern instructions to make a bodice muslin before cutting your good fabric. I'm so glad I listened to her. The muslin showed I needed further tweaks. A cheater FBA and a sway back adjustment improved the fit immensely. I referenced the Lady Skater fitting and adjustments post for guidance.

The Lady Skater is a close fit on top, which can be disconcerting if you are making the dress in a thin fabric. My muslin showed off some less-than-lovely lumps on my back. I had already decided to underline the bodice of my final dress with swimsuit lining because the fashion fabric was too sheer to wear alone. Adding a second layer also created a smoother look on my back. (At least the upper back. This picture shows there's still some work to be done.)


I also needed a second layer in the skirt to stay decent. I've tried underlining swishy skirts before and been unhappy with the results. A lining that hangs freely gives the skirt more movement. In this pattern, the assembly instructions are to sew the side seams of the bodice, skirt, and sleeves in one go. This is super quick.  Unless, of course, you realize AFTER you start assembling that this method doesn't work if you plan to line your skirt. Then you spend a lot of time with the seam ripper.



So, did I finish in time to wear the dress roller skating? I did not. But I had a wonderful time giving it a try.

The dress was ready by the next evening and I wore it to work the following day and to a fashion show on campus that weekend. (These photos are from a nearby computer lab, where my friend and I warmed up after spending three hours watching models in a TENT while it snowed.) This dress feels great to wear and I'm sure it will be in heavy rotation through spring!

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Dress to Nightgown: PASS


Remember that dress that I didn't like wearing, even though the green gumdrop print fabric felt so lovely? Well, now it's a nightgown.

I hacked off the bodice, which was beyond saving, and held the skirt at various heights to decide whether to make a long skirt, mini skirt, or dress.



I kept the side seams and ruffled hem as they were and used lingerie elastic from my stash to gather the top and make simple straps. It would have been more flattering to make an actual bodice instead of just an elasticized tube. But when compared to my usual sleep attire -- one of my husband's giant t-shirts from the 90s -- any nightgown looks fantastic.

I've worn this more in two months than I wore the dress in eight years. Which makes this former FAIL a new PASS. (Woot!)