Sunday, October 11, 2015

High-Low Hem Lane Raglan: PASS


I've been toying with the idea of an asymmetrical hem for a while now. Wouldn't it be nice to have a slightly higher hem in the front without having to tuck in just the front of my shirt? (Which makes me feel ridiculous. Though not as silly as tucking in just one side.)

But how much to raise the hem in front and lower it in back? I looked to the Hey June Lane Raglan pattern hacks blog post for guidance, then decided on a more rounded look for my back hem. 

Husband/Photographer: Are you sure you want a photo of the back? It's pretty wrinkly.
Me: [Sighs] Yeah. Go for it.
The hem, if you can find it amid the wrinkles, is just the right length and shape. The rest just hammers home that I need a sway back adjustment. 

I also cannot understand what's making my necklines gape. (Maybe not having done a FBA, full bust adjustment, is part of the problem? Or maybe I've got a rounded back?) I tried a new technique, gathering it slightly with elastic thread, but that turned out lumpy. Here's what I came up with instead.



My coworkers say this tuck looks like a design element. That is now my official story.

Intentional design elements included shortening the sleeves and using narrow sleeve and hem bands (same width as at the neckline). I thought this gave a more dressy look to what is essentially a double-knit polyester sweatshirt. There wasn't nearly enough fabric to match plaids, so I didn't even try to come close. I took in the side seams a bit at the waist (after the fact) to give the shirt more shape.

Overall I'm happy with the result, but know that I need to suck it up and make some pattern adjustments next time. Then maybe I can spend more time sewing shirts instead of fiddling with each one after the fact to try to make it fit!

2 comments:

  1. About your Lane raglan: you clearly do need a swayback alteration, but no way do you have a rounded back! It looks to me like you are blessed with broad, square shoulders that are pushing the top, as cut and sewn, out of shape. It can be tricky to accommodate square shoulders in one-part raglan sleeves. With a two-part sleeve you can easily widen the curve for shoulders. One way to test if this is your issue is to take the pleat out of the back and remove the excess in the neckline by putting darts along the shoulder line, large end at the neckline tapering to nothing at the shoulder edge. If that seems to help, then you want to find out how long your shoulders are and how much they slope away from level (parallel to the floor) because you will need that info for every top or dress that you make. Good luck! -M. T.

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    1. Woah, thank you! I never thought to measure the length of my shoulders, or to try darts at the neckline to the shoulder to take out excess fabric. (Or to change from one-piece sleeve to two to make for easier alterations.) Mind = blown. I will give all of these suggestions a try.

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