Sunday, April 17, 2016

Birthday Lady Skater Dress: PASS

Birthdays are a day to act like royalty at our house. The person of honor is exempt from all responsibility and can do whatever they want. And I wanted a lot: a cycling class, lunch with my sweetie, dinner with friends, roller skating, birthday cake, and hours and hours in the studio for sewing!

When my guys gifted me the Lady Skater pattern from Kitschy Coo, I knew how I'd spend that studio time. I set out to make a Lady Skater for my evening at the roller rink. My measurements are between size 3 and 4 in this pattern, so I traced between the cutting lines to create a size 3.5. I also cut the sleeves to elbow length and made a square shoulder adjustment (a life-changing suggestion from M.T. in my Lane Raglan post).

Kitschy Coo Amanda offers sound advice in her pattern instructions to make a bodice muslin before cutting your good fabric. I'm so glad I listened to her. The muslin showed I needed further tweaks. A cheater FBA and a sway back adjustment improved the fit immensely. I referenced the Lady Skater fitting and adjustments post for guidance.

The Lady Skater is a close fit on top, which can be disconcerting if you are making the dress in a thin fabric. My muslin showed off some less-than-lovely lumps on my back. I had already decided to underline the bodice of my final dress with swimsuit lining because the fashion fabric was too sheer to wear alone. Adding a second layer also created a smoother look on my back. (At least the upper back. This picture shows there's still some work to be done.)

I also needed a second layer in the skirt to stay decent. I've tried underlining swishy skirts before and been unhappy with the results. A lining that hangs freely gives the skirt more movement. In this pattern, the assembly instructions are to sew the side seams of the bodice, skirt, and sleeves in one go. This is super quick.  Unless, of course, you realize AFTER you start assembling that this method doesn't work if you plan to line your skirt. Then you spend a lot of time with the seam ripper.

So, did I finish in time to wear the dress roller skating? I did not. But I had a wonderful time giving it a try.

The dress was ready by the next evening and I wore it to work the following day and to a fashion show on campus that weekend. (These photos are from a nearby computer lab, where my friend and I warmed up after spending three hours watching models in a TENT while it snowed.) This dress feels great to wear and I'm sure it will be in heavy rotation through spring!

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